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Jao Camp newsletter - January 2009

January has been LEOPARD month with excellent sightings of both the 'furred' and 'shelled' kind! Plenty of leopard tortoises of all sizes have been passing through, providing us with the opportunity for some fascinating interactions. Amazingly, their most frequently visited spot is the site of two old elephant skulls, where it is routine for them to gnaw off chunks of bone. This strange dining habit is actually essential to the well-being of the tortoise as the bone is filled with calcium and phosphorus, which their bodies need to grow strong, beautifully patterned shells.

In addition to these fortified fellows, resident leopard mom and cub, Beauty and Motsumi, have taken up nightly residence on the island due to the abundance of young impala, which provide very satisfying meals for them as they are easy to hunt and catch. Since Jao is a relatively small island, it is no wonder that the duo were seen going about their usual leopard business, despite their characteristic attempts to remain hidden in the dense foliage beside the walkways. Our ever determined Beauty was seen stalking and hunting on numerous occasions. Peeking out from behind the branches of mopane trees, her prostrated form was mistaken for a fallen log a few times - until her bright eyes glinted in the torch light, thereby giving away her true identity.beauty and motsumi

Motsumi, true to his nonchalant personality, was caught relaxing on several of our guest room decks while his mother was out doing all of the hard work. Our guest, Paul, definitely had the most prized interaction with him, as he took a liking to the deck of Paul's room during his stay. On his first morning at Jao, Paul startled the cub from a nap on the Sala bed, as he was climbing out of his own bed. The next evening, returning from dinner, the cub had made himself comfortable next to his front door. Like a naughty child, Motsumi fled as soon as he was spotted, escaping from the deck into the dark cover of night.

Intimacy with wildlife is not all that a safari has to offer. It also allows us the opportunity to delight in nature in its purest form. Guests Alain and Christine, and Rudolf and Marion, all experienced a contented type of enjoyment of the bush that goes beyond the pleasure of the sightings of big game. One of Botswana's most mystical trees, the colossal baobab, provided a marvellously unusual setting for an evening in the wilderness with the Jao team. There are many superstitions involving the baobab - one in particular tells of how spirits gather beneath the tree at night. Contemplating all of the things that these living fossils must have seen over the thousands of years that they have stood in the same spot does draw one into a spiritual place, and makes it easy to imagine that old souls observe the dinner lights from shadows.

With unsullied floodplain under our feet, a cool, gentle wind in our hair, dinner music provided by the delicate calls of the lovely reed frogs, stars silhouetted by dancing baobab leaves and a view of a spectacular thunderstorm surrounding us, each bite of dinner could not have tasted more splendid!jao baobab

The roar of the lion has added to the magnificence of the bush sounds lately. Each night, as the sun sinks below the horizon, the young male (from the Kwetsani Pride) has begun to prowl the concession in a display of his new-found independence. This is his first separation from his mother and sister, but despite his bold-sounding roar, it seems that he must still gain a bit of confidence before he is able to completely detach himself from them.

Two old Jao acquaintances, lioness Broken Nose and her sub-adult daughter, have re-entered the area after a lengthy absence. They are keeping close to the protection offered by the dense palm islands north-east of us, so as not to clash with the Kwetsani pride. A new pride may be imminent, pending the union of these females and the young Kwetsani male.

Our Jao 'book' has many other characters that do not always steal the show, but certainly make significant appearances. Secretive creatures like the hyaena pups and mum, side-striped jackal, serval and genet have been identified by glimpses of pricked ears sticking out of the tall grasses and quick tails nipping into shadowed shrubs.

And let us not forget our feathered friends who also put in special appearances that delight the discerning safari-goer. A Wahlberg's Eagle was spotted on a rabbit kill at the airstrip, and both African and Corn Crakes have been spotted flitting amongst the tall grass. These birds are very rarely seen in this area, and so make an exciting addition to the hundreds of 'regular' bird species that add to the splendour of the Jao skies, plains and waterways each day.

Mongoose Manor Update
Following the exciting births of a litter of banded mongoose last month, we are proud to announce that four healthy pups have survived the threats of raptors, snakes and big cats. The contented parents have allowed us to view their young on several occasions now - provided that we keep a safe distance, and make no sudden movements! The little ones have opened their eyes, grown fur, and are already stumbling around, mimicking the rest of the troop in their dynamic chatter and vigorous digging. Let us hope that the impeccable teamwork of these creatures will keep these four budding personalities from any potential harm which would prevent them from reaching maturity.